Category: How-To

Just a quick tip for today. I found my self fixing a problem earlier that required I logged out as a user and back in as an admin and back in as a user to test etc… Although the Windows 7 PC was attached to a domain, I didn’t want to log in with a domain account. Instead, I had two local accounts set up. One in the admin group and the other in the users group.

The typical way of not logging in to the domain is by entering the following in the username box:

hostnameusername

After a while this can get a little tedious, especially as the hostname was a mix of country and serial number. A quick work around is to simply type in:

.username

Putting the . before the username instructs Windows 7 to log the user in locally rather than on to the domain.

I figured if you run in to the same problems sometime that this might be of benefit to you.

I wrote a couple of weeks back about two-step authentication that was added to Dropbox and how it can make your Dropbox account more secure. Two-step authentication is only part of the challenge though and only protects you from people trying to break in to your account. What happens when one of your Dropbox devices is stolen? Unfortunately the results can be grim depending on how secure you have kept the device that was stolen although there is hope for iOS and Android users. Let me take you through a quick guide on what you can do to make things a little safer and potentially remotely remove files that are stored in Dropbox on that device that was stolen.

First things first, all aspects of security need to be thought about. Remember that if you run Dropbox on a Mac or Windows laptop or desktop computer then ALL files are typically copied locally unless you specify otherwise. This means that if someone gets your computer and you have no password or a week password then the intruder can simply open up your local Dropbox folder and have access.

My first quick recommendation is log in to Dropbox on the web (if you use two-step authentication then make sure you already have your backup password if your phone that gets the authentication code is the one that is stolen). When logged in, click your name at the top right and then on Settings. When the settings have loaded up, go to the Security tab and unlink the device so that it is no longer connected to your account. Unfortunately, this doesn’t include a remote wipe, so if they have access to files then you are simply preventing them from accessing your online Dropbox account and making any changes.

I recommend full-disk encryption

When laptop or desktop devices are stolen I more worry about the data that is stored than the device that is stolen. If I have good enough backups then the computer can be replaced and although annoying and leaving you with a vulnerable feeling, your data is safe. But, if you have no backup and lose your data, that is way more costly.

There is a risk with storing information anywhere. If information isn’t protected correctly then potentially anybody can gain access to it. This is why I recommend you use encryption. I personally use full disk encryption on the Mac although if you just want to keep files in a secure folder, you could potentially just secure that particular folder. For more information on why it is important to secure your device with a password and encrypt the data, take a read of my full disk encryption post. This also includes instructions or links to instructions on how you could secure your data.

Should an encrypted device with a good password be stolen then you can take more comfort in the fact that the intruder will likely just reformat the device and use the hardware. In a lot of cases the intruder is interested in the hardware.

What if your iOS or Android Dropbox device is stolen?
Luckily with iOS the device doesn’t store files locally (typically). By simply using the unlink method mentioned above you can disconnect your stolen iPad or iPhone from Dropbox and when the intruder loads up the app they VERY briefly see a list of folders and files but in less than a second they are taken back to the login/register screen.

The same, I believe, is the case for Android although I have been unable to test as I have no available Android device. Users on the Dropbox forum indicate that Android will also be presented a registration screen when the device is unlocked.

Another option, and one that all iOS users should have active, is Find my iPhone which comes part of icloud.com and is built-in for free on iOS 4+ devices in the mail/calendar settings menu. Activate this and if your device is stolen you can track it, lock it, remotely wipe it or set an alarm on it with a message. My preferred method is to use an 8-digit pin (company restrictions mandate this to get email). I’d first unlink from Dropbox as it’s quick and easy. I’d then remotely lock with a stronger password and track for a while and if no luck with that, I’d initiate a remote wipe.

Either way, if your iOS device running Dropbox is stolen a simply unlink in Dropbox’s web interface will clear the contents for you.

How to prepare now

Although the chances are that you are reading this because of a Dropbox device being stolen, hopefully it can bring some hope in that if you are on Android or iOS then you can simply unlink. But, if you are reading this and your device hasn’t been stolen then go enable two-step authentication now and look at adding passwords to all devices as well as encryption and backups where possible. It’s all about preventing access both virtual through a hack or physical through encryption to ensure that your data doesn’t get in to the wrong hands.

Using technology you might already own, you can create a simple video security system by using your webcam, coupled with either a smartphone, tablet or even a web browser. The software is free to use (the desktop version if free… the app costs $4.99) and lets you easily broadcast live video from your computer (Mac or Windows) to a smartphone running the appropriate software.

What you need

To get started you need to make sure you have the following… a Windows or Mac based computer along with an attached web camera. To receive video you also need to have an iPad, iPhone or an Android powered device. Alternatively you can use a web browser on a remote computer to call back home and check your video feed.

Installation

The first step is to install the iCamSource software by visiting here. Installation is relatively simply and all you need to do there is follow the instructions found through the process. When installed, load it up, select the camera source (you can actually have up to 16 cameras streaming data if you view them with an iPad). Select a schedule (if desired… such as business hours when you might be out of your home) and then click the Start button. In most instances the iCamSource software will work with your standard router settings. Things only get a little more complicated if you have a more complex setup although instructions are provided on how to get it working on the website linked above.

The next step is to install the iPhone, iPad or Android app which are found under the name of iCam in the iTunes App Store or through Google Play. These apps cost $4.99.

To connect the two up you need to open up iCamSource on your desktop and specify a username and password. This can be anything you want although I suggest you make it complicated. When this is done, load up the app version on your mobile device and when prompted, enter the exact same username and password. The iCam (SKJM) website simply connects your devices together and if the passwords match, the can talk.

All you now need to do is just make sure push notifications are enabled on your mobile device, which they are by default, and when your camera spots any movement it starts recording images to your computer, sends a push notification to your phone via Apple or Google and notifies you of movement at home. You can then log in and check the live video stream (which also can have audio if your camera supports it) and see if it’s anything important.

What if your computer is stolen

Although it’s all well and good being able to capture on video if intruders are in your home, the main problem with that is if they steal your computer… the images only get stored locally. For that reason I recommend you use a service such as Dropbox and set the storage destination as a folder within your Dropbox account. As soon as images are captured (when movement happens) they will be saved in a Dropbox folder and then uploaded. As the images are fairly small in size they upload quickly and hopefully the power isn’t cut to the computer before they can be uploaded. Either way, adding them to Dropbox allows you to access the image on another PC if they computer had a chance to upload them which it probably did.

What kind of cameras work with iCam?

iCamSource is able to attach to many cameras at the same time. If you use iCam for your home then perhaps you want to have a camera around all vulnerable places in your home such as watching doors, windows and any other place where someone might get in. iCam doesn’t work with all cameras, but does have a healthy and growing list of IP cameras available. Some IP cameras have wireless functionality which means you can plug in a camera, configure it to attach to your wireless network at home and then configure iCam to connect to that camera wirelessly. Some IP cameras also come with night vision thanks to infrared LEDs which also helps when rooms are dark.

As iCam is only $4.99 to use with the only extra cost being that of extra cameras (should you have an iPhone, iPad or Android device already as well as a computer and a webcam) then it’s well worth testing out. Although it isn’t good being paranoid all the time about leaving your home, at least you can quickly check on an app and have a video streamed right to your device. Overall, an excellent product and idea.

I mentioned yesterday how I use Evernote to help keep all my paperwork, emails and ideas organised. I use it on the desktop as well as on my iPad and iPhone as well as the web based version from time to time. It got me thinking that I should create a list of apps that I use from day to day on my iPad and how I managed to achieve what I do thanks to a decent tablet device.

Some people use their iPad to consume data. That is read websites, read emails, read RSS feeds and browse the news. The iPad is extremely good for this as the light weight (ish) tablet form factor works well when being lazy in front of the TV. I tend to use my iPad for that as well as for content creation as well as keeping myself organised. To summarise it in a sentence or so, I guess I could say that it gives me access to all the information I need while out and about as well as the ability to get things done.

Which iPad model is best?

There are a few different variants of the iPad with the most distinguishing feature being that of connectivity. In this category there are two models. These are WiFi or WiFi+4G. Each of these comes in either black or white and also comes in either 16GB, 32GB or 64GB of storage. All have a battery life of 9 – 11 hours depending on you using 4G (3G where 4G not available) and what you are doing with the tablet. General web browsing easily lets you reach the 9 – 11 hours between charges.

I personally opted for the WiFi+4G option. I call it 4G because that is what it is called although here in the UK 3G networks are what we have at the moment although 4G is coming any month now. The reason I opted for a 4G iPad was that I run a business and while on the road I like access to the web even if I am away from wireless. I could technically tether through my iPhone but I don’t do that for a couple of reasons. First, T-Mobile in the UK charge for tethering (quite a lot) and second, I quite like the seamless access to 3G or WiFi without having to enable tethering. I guess I could throw in a third in that I use my iPad on the Three network which means that between T-Mobile(and Orange) as well as Three, I get decent coverage in case I need to log in and fix a problem without having a WiFi connection nearby. I also like to avoid free public WiFi hotspots for security reasons.

As for other hardware, I use a standard red leather smart cover for the iPad and also have a Zagg Folio keyboard case (primarily for blogging and note taking if I plan to write lots). I actually use the iPad 2 version of the Zagg Folio on an iPad 3. It fits… barely but if I purchased it after my iPad 3 purchase, I would have gone for the iPad 3 Folio to let the iPad slide in and out of the case easier. Other than that, it’s essentially the same keyboard case.

With that in mind, let me tell you what apps I use regularly to read and get things done.

What iPad apps I use the most

I’ve never really counted before so decided to do a quick count now. I aim to keep all apps and folders on to a single screen and for that reason, I use 16 folders with various amounts of apps in each. Direct icons (not stored in folders), I have 8 + newsstand which cannot be put in to a folder unless you try trick it. I tend not to use Newsstand, so it sits in the bottom corner. Across the dock at the bottom of the screen I have my calendar which syncs up to my Gmail account. Following that I have Safari, Messages, Mail, Evernote and OmniFocus. I have toyed with the idea of switching out Safari for Chrome but not got around to that yet. Evernote is used a lot, as I mentioned yesterday, so I like having access to it down on the dock.

OmniFocus is used daily (not always on the iPad as I have it synced to my desktop and iPhone as well). I use it to track things that I need to do. My current responsibilities have me travel to 10 – 12 locations regularly, so for that reason I always have location based reminders enabled within OmniFocus. As I arrive at a destination both my phone and iPad remind me what I need to do while I’m there.

I mentioned my calendar is linked in with Gmail, as is my email which I use the general Mail app for. I do have the Gmail app installed but tend to only use that for when I need to search for some old obscure email as the search in Mail isn’t as good. I also have Gmail connected up to the iPad using the Exchange connector rather than the Gmail settings. The benefits of doing it this way means that all my contacts are synced over. I often see friends on Facebook that complain that they have lost everones numbers. As I sync, I can easily make a change to a contact on my iPad, iPhone or on the browser in Gmail and each device is immediately updated. Should I lose a device or upgrade, I simply log in under Exchange and the numbers almost instantly appear. Very handy!

I am a regular user of SimpleNote for taking basic minutes in meetings. I like it because it’s simple and easily syncs to my desktop (thanks Notational Velocity). When I finish editing the minutes, I can email them out and BCC my Evernote email address on it so that they get stored in my more permanent storage area (Evernote).

Instapaper is an app I use daily. I tend to quickly browse through various news websites and when I come across something and I don’t have time to read it there and then, I add it to Instapaper and read it at a later time or date. Instapaper formats text very clearly and is simply amazing to use.

Blogsy gets used regularly for writing blog content whilst on the move. As I can connect to many blogs, work with a visual editor and publish from the same interface I find it a very valuable tool. I also like the built in overlaid browser so that I can look up stuff I need while blogging and not have to close the app out.

I regularly use Easy Books for accounting purposes. Each day or every few days when checking bank accounts, I can quickly add in new business transactions and have them seamlessly sync to phone and desktop. Very handy for keeping the accounts in order!

Facebook gets regular use and even more so now that the iOS version is actually good. I hated the app until last week when they switched from HTML5 to native Objective-C code to power the app. It runs far smoother and is simple enough to use.

RightMove gets used weekly to look for houses. I quite like being able to zoom in on an area on a map and then click to search the area for properties.

iPlayer is used more by my children than by myself. They tend to watch cartoons on it although I have been known to catch up with some shows if I miss them.

TactioHealth is used weekly to track my weight progress. There isn’t much else to say about that. It’s just a convenience to be able to track where I’m at and see some fancy graphs going in the right direction.

Debt Free is used a few times a month to track where mortgage payments are at. I quite like the built in calculator functions that let me see how much interest I can save should I add another £100 to my monthly payments. Seeing 5 digit number savings and having a number of years knocked off the term is quite a motivation to pay off more. Note that we are on a variable rate and can therefore pay off extra without gaining a penalty.

Zite, BBC News, TechCrunch, Engadget and a few other news sites are also used from time to time. Zite tends to be the most popular of the bunch and is usually accessed daily.

I use iBooks but prefer to try buy a PDF version of a book where possible as I like the layout to be kept as it is in a book. The funky page turning of an iBook isn’t enough to get me to switch from a PDF with all the images and text layout in tact. I use iTunes U regularly as I enjoy watching lectures related to computer science to be more educated. I use the Kindle app as some books I have purchased have been from the Amazon site.

I use a number of image editing tools such as iPhoto, Snapseed although I generally do not take photos with my iPad as I think it’s just silly to do that. I tend to capture with my iPhone, sync with photostream and edit on the iPad.

I have many other apps installed with a number of them hardly used while others are used as and when I need them such as the VNC Client which might get used once a month to connect up remotely to a computer.

I have stacks of games on my iPad although generally don’t play games that much, maybe a couple of times a week and those sessions are generally short, perhaps 30 minutes. I just don’t get time but do enjoy relaxing from time to time.

iPad 2010 compared to iPad now

When the iPad first launched it was running iOS 3… no multi-tasking and I don’t even think it had folders at that point. When I first got an iPad it was a novelty although with apps like Evernote and being able to sync a calendar and being a great way of reading and sending email, it gradually knocked a laptop out of my life. Although I still prefer a fully fledged computer to do some things, the iPad lets me conveniently work whilst on the move. Blogging is simple (other than image editing which can be done but is far slower), keeping organised, being able to access information and all that being mixed with a long battery life of around 10 hours in a very slim form factor, very quick power on time (instant) it makes for a great device to sling in my bag and use while on the road. I no longer need to carry a power lead if out for the day as the iPad just goes and goes for a good 10 hours. It’s actually hard work draining the battery and I often go a few days between charges.

For some of you it simply wont work. If you do complex spreadsheet editing and want to sync up with Excel, there are options such as CloudOn, but it isn’t the same as having a decent Excel compatible spreadsheet editor built in to an app running natively. If you want to be organised it will work well for you though.

I first used a dual screen computer back in about 2002. I managed to get hold of a large 21 inch CRT as well as a 15 inch CRT. I connected it up to my home built PC by buying an updated graphics card that had two outputs. If I remember correctly I had to use a DVI port for one of the screens although I had to attach a DVI to VGA convertor on to that as both monitors were just VGA. The larger screen ran at 1600 x 1200 and the smaller screen, probably 1280 x 1024 or more likely 1024 x 768.

Being able to work on a spreadsheet and Word document at the same time without having to minimise one to see the other helped speed things up making me get jobs done far quicker. That machine died after a while, perhaps a dodgy bit of thermal grease caused it. Either way, I switched to a laptop in 2006.

After a few years of using a widescreen laptop as my primary machine, I decided to get a 2010 iMac with a 27 inch screen. Thanks to the size of the screen and the crazy resolution (not as crazy as a Retina Mac Pro mind you) of 2560 x 1440, I can now have two windows open side by side with plenty of room to work on. But, I found myself wanting a bit more screen space. I stumbled across a decent ViewSonic 19 inch LCD (the VA1916w model) and decided to see if I could use that as a secondary display. As the display was going spare, the only expense I had was to convert from a display port to VGA which required an adapter from Apple. Not too cheap, but I justified it with there being no cost of the second screen.

Attaching it up was simple. Just plug it in and moments later it gets detected. All you do next is look at the preferences, check the resolution is set right (which it was automatically) and then drag the screen layout in to how you have it on your desk.

Why does a 27 inch iMac user want a second display

Although I do a lot of blogging, some here and lots elsewhere, I also use Xcode a lot to create iPad and iPhone apps… ok, I’ll be honest, my first hasn’t been released yet but will be doing soon although I have created plenty of test apps and some of my own apps for my own use. While using features such as the interface builder as well as viewing header and implementation code side-by-side, I quickly found that to look through Apple documentation meant shrinking the Xcode window down so I could fit the browser next to it. Xcode likes a lot of screen estate, so I opted for the second screen mainly so I could browse documents on the left screen while working on my primary 27 inch screen.

Performance problems to look out for with dual screens

When purchasing this iMac, I got the cheapest 27 inch model available… lowest spec that is. I maxed out the RAM at a later date (a few months back now) after finding a good deal on 16GB. However, running OS X Lion there were a few graphical performance issues. Often the iMac would freeze when trying to swipe between desktops or when sliding 3 fingers up on the Magic Trackpad (expose) and it would hang there for maybe 20 – 30 seconds and then come back to life. This was an “ok-ish” problem due to the extra screen providing extra value. Good news though is that after upgrading to the lates OS X version a few weeks back, OS X Mountain Lion, these performance issues are completely gone. So, if you see performance issues on your iMac with dual-screens, perhaps it might be worth an update to Mountain Lion as Apple seems to have done something that makes graphics perform far more efficiently.

Could I go back to a single screen

Of course. Although adding a second screen is a nice convenience, a 27 inch iMac with a 2560 x 1440 resolution still provides plenty of screen space to work with. While I have the option and desk space for a second screen I’ll keep it, but should that change at a later date, it wont be too painful to lose.

The only thing to watch out for is 1. performance… Mountain Lion fixed that completely for me though. 2. Cost of a convertor should your secondary display not be compatible with the output on the iMac. My late 2010 iMac has a display port but newer ones I believe use Thunderbolt.